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Valentino unlocks 'cabinet of wonder' in Paris

Couture collection a 'Wunderkammer' of high fashion

Valentino unlocks 'cabinet of wonder' in Paris

(By Roberta Filippini) Paris, July 4 - The new couture collection by Valentino could be described as a cabinet of wonder - the Wunderkammer of ancient collectors - with precious, strange, original, unknown things, which for centuries intrigued the cultured, and satisfied thirst for knowledge of a world continuously revealed to be ever larger. Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli belong to a category of creatives obsessed not only or as much with fashion image as execution on the highest level - that of an impossible dream. And here, in Valentino high fashion, this obsession is visible and becomes the collection's added-value. Each garment is a masterpiece, and is itself a Wunderkammer full of surprises and secrets. The collection starts from the day - revisited and redesigned just as haute couture seemed to abandon it in preference for the shimmering emphasis on evening. Chiuri and Piccioli, now sure of their stuff, took double cashmere, printed it with Baroque arabesques, cut it out and inserted it into the herringbone coat - with an unforgettable final effect. Leonardo da Vinci once said, "Simplicity is the ultimate satisfaction," and the creative pair chose this phrase as inspiration for the collection: hidden work, so much work, for simply elegant, astonishing final effect. So it was for the perforated, laser-cut hood, intricately worked over with seams - normally only straight on the double - that here follow arabesque patterns. A miracle of skill, like the sable furs juxtaposed with gold-thread-embroidered tulle - breathtaking craft. What can one say about the little black dress with pure, velvet and Persian shapes cut like lace? And the petticoat dress embroidered as a Caucasian rug in bas-relief? It's a little hard to describe the complex construction of an imperial enthronement dress, embroidered with 2,200 natural pearls and a kilo of gold thread, but with a linear, light appearance, train included. It's price? Who knows, but the pearls and the gold aren't the intimidation factor, because as they say, "It is rather the hours of craft that generate the value of a high fashion garment".

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