Paris

Armani Prive' gives 'nude' sensuality timeless glamour

Fusion of rich lace, bare flesh in fall-winter collection

Armani Prive' gives 'nude' sensuality timeless glamour

(By Elisa Cecchi) Paris, July 3 - Past and future breathed as one at the Armani Prive' haute couture show in Paris Tuesday with old-fashioned Hollywood glamour taking on a modern seductive twist. Italian designer Giorgio Armani delivered a 'Nude' collection creating a fusion of rich lace and bare flesh peeking out from under transparent organza and tulle. Pearly hues dominated by pink were a nude-toned ode to elegance for fall-winter 2013. The lightest dresses floated down the catwalk in a contemporary vision of 1930s screen-star glitter while cocktail wear veered into contemporary territory with statement pant suits and full skirts over sheer trousers. Timeless femininity was the dominant theme of the designer's 52 haute-couture creations, which glanced back to the seductive power of tight bodices and sumptuous skirts while making a modern statement. Short hems were nowhere to be seen, Armani Prive's evanescent sensuality took on the extreme contrast of long evening gowns or the house's staple, pants. Old Hollywood glamour oozed from a sumptuous, embroidered evening gown encrusted with crystals and a skirt made out of 47 metres of fabric. Evanescent capes with pearls and crystals, embroidered mermaid-style silhouettes, raffia lace, organza and tulle layers revealed but never bared the flesh and captured the 1930s drama. Cocktail-wear was dominated by trousers. Wool or silk pant suits were infused with a sleek edge which complemented the collection. Whether ruffled, embroidered or bejewelled, Armani's fall-winter 2013 haute couture stood out for its diaphanous quality. Armani stripped the body bare in nude hues of pink and beige in a collection vying, for once, to please men as much as women because, the designer said on the sidelines of the show, "a man doesn't like to have beside him a woman who follows fashion too much in the way she dresses, he is wary of dresses that are too avant-garde". Nude elegance, said the 79-year-old deacon of Italian fashion, is appealing to men and women who "are happy to show only what is barely necessary". The richness of details gave depth to the filmy creations. Soft jackets in rose crystals barely touched the body - an androgynous touch balancing the powerful femininity. The balancing act was also to be seen in ample overcoats revealing lace linings or in the snakeskin top giving edge to another 'nude' ensemble. The embroidered tulle of shoes, rich jewellery and plumes enveloping the neck contributed to the screen-goddess quality of the collection. Black peaked in a few numbers though always paired with pink - in a beaded, striped long jumpsuit for evening or in a striking, long slip dress. But pink always prevailed, like light over shadow. Armani Prive's vision for fall 2013 embraced the essence of high fashion, said the designer, "because sometimes haute couture appears instead to vie too much for a set-design effect befitting ready-to-wear while it should be a more intimate moment and rediscover its poetry and mystery".

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